Technical Articles

Notes on Buying a Morris Minor

Okay, so you want to buy a Morris Minor - or you think you do! Before taking the plunge think carefully about what sort of car you want and how you will use it. Most Morris Minors in Australia are now 50+ years old and were not designed for the driving conditions of these days.
Don't expect a Morris Minor to keep up with modern traffic - there is no way that one can accelerate or stop like a modern car. The Morry even has difficulty keeping up with buses and trucks - especially going up hills!
And don't buy one for cheap transport - old cars take a lot of work to keep going which can be expensive unless you do the work yourself. So a Morry is fine as a hobby car but not really the vehicle to chose for every day transport.

Questions to Ask Yourself Before Purchasing :-

Why do I want a Morris Minor?
How will I use it? (e.g. daily transport, club events, weekend cruising, concours restoration, modified/hot rod)
Which model do I prefer? (Lowlight, Series II, 1000, 2-door, 4-door, Tourer/Convertible, Traveller, Ute, Van)
What is my realistic budget for purchase plus immediate restoration/repairs?
Do I have the workspace, tools, and mechanical aptitude to do maintenance myself?

1. Bodywork & Rust Inspection

Rust is the number one enemy of any Morris Minor. Because the Minor uses monocoque (unitary) construction, structural rust can be dangerous and expensive to rectify properly.

Examine the sills or chassis sub frames underneath the doors. These are not easily assessable without removing the kick plates. Try to examine the sills with the carpet and trims removed. Check the area where they meet the front inner wheel arch. Examine them along their length, particularly at the base where they abut the floor and all the way back to the rear seat support. This area may be patched over with sheet steel which may weaken this area.

sill sill2

eye

The sill areas below the doors are prone to rust.

The front of the rear springs fix to plates welded to the rear floor. The area where the spring hangar is should be carefully examined as well as the floor from inside the car.
Above the front rear spring hangars is the support section for the front of the rear seat base. Where this joins with the floor is a common point for rust.
The rear of the rear springs are connected to the continuation of the chassis rails by shackle brackets, the box section of this chassis rail is prone to rust.

3. Mechanicals.

Check the condition of the exhaust system.

Engine:-

Remove the radiator cap and check for rusty water (an indication that the coolant hasn't been changed for a long time) and oil (an indication of head gasket problems or a cracked head or engine block).
Examine the radiator for damage or leaks.
Remove the dipstick - the presence of water in the oil indicates head gasket problems (or a cracked head or engine block).
Examine engine mounting brackets for damage and rubber mounts for perishing.
Remove oil filler cap - a yellow or brown sludge indicates possible bore or valve guide wear.
Check the starter motor - a motor that turns the engine over slowly may be faulty or could indicate a poor battery or electrical connections.
Switch on the ignition and check that the oil and ignition lights are working.
Start the engine and let it thoroughly warm. Check that the ignition light goes out indicating that the generator is charging the battery. Check that the oil light goes out indicating engine oil pressure. Listen to the engine, bottom end rumble may indicate crank wear, front end tinkle timing chain wear and top end tapping possible tappet wear.
Check the engine for the presence of oil leaks (minor oil leaks are not unusual!).

Steering/Suspension:-

Push and pull on steering wheel -clonking or looseness may indicate worn column bush, loose steering wheel, etc.
Turn the steering wheel back and fourth and check for free play. There should be little or no free play.
Jack both front wheels off the ground. Turn steering wheel from lock to lock - roughness or tight-spots indicates wear in the steering rack.
With the front wheels off the ground, grasp each front wheel top and bottom and try to rock the wheel. Any more than a small amount of play will indicate wheel bearing wear.
With a jack under the wishbone arm, carefully raise the front wheel and check the upper and lower king pin threads and bushes for wear. It should be noted that any looseness in the king pin to upper or lower linkages could lead to serious failure, by the king pins pulling out.

Brakes:-

Check metal brake pipes for corrosion and leaks. Examine rubber front brake hoses, and hose to rear axle, for cracks and leaks.
Examine the inside of tyre and brake backing plates for signs of fluid leakage.
Press down on the brake pedal for a minute or two, if it sinks slowly there may be a hydraulic leak or the master cylinder may be faulty.

Transmission:-

Check for oil leaks from the gear box.
Check for oil leaks from rear axles and differential.
Check the propeller shaft universal joints for wear.

4. Road Test:-

Test the gearbox at various speeds and conditions of acceleration. Check for noise, difficulty of engaging gears and slipping out of gear.
Check for shuddering or noisy clutch. If shuddering, check wire brace from gearbox to cross member and engine brace from cylinder head to firewall.
Check that the brakes stop the car evenly and without excessive force having to be exerted on the brake pedal. Also listen for squealing or grinding noises when applying the brakes.
Is the engine noisy and does it lack power? Check for excessive smoke from the exhaust especially when driving off and accelerating.
Check that the front wheels do not flutter or shake at speed.
Listen for front suspension clonks - especially when driving over rough roads or applying brakes.
Drive at 50 KM/H ( 30 MPH) and release the accelerator - listen for differential whine.
With car stopped and hand brake firmly applied, slowly let out clutch pedal and check for slipping clutch.

The above list is by no means complete. I would strongly recommend the intending purchaser of a Morris Minor to buy or borrow the excellent book by Lindsay Porter or the other books listed below, from which I acknowledge obtaining many of these ideas.
The above check list does appear to be daunting. However, when purchasing an old car it is almost a certainty that numerous faults will be found in almost every car examined.
A final word of warning, never trust a Road Worthy Certificate to indicate that a car is free from faults.

References:-
1. Morris Minor & 1000 - The guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration  by Lindsay Porter
2. Morris Minor - The World's Supreme Small Car  by Paul Skilleter
3. Morris Minor 1000 Owner's Workshop Manual  by J H Hayne